Thursday, September 24, 2009

Riding Texas' Hill Country, Part Three


Yup.  The dashing fellow is your intrepid explorer.

You would think I could handle a crying woman by now. But no. When Phyllis, my high school sweetie, began crying, I felt the vague need to DO something. "What?" ran through my mind.  She composed herself and I moved closer, putting an arm around her in a friendly hug. I smiled at her and in the general direction of the crowd of forty or so complete strangers who stared back at me.  In a moment, Phyllis spoke.  She introduced me to the crowd and told them we had not laid eyes on each other in more than forty years. (Way more.) Then, she ushered me around the room, introducing me to each person in turn.  I smiled, repeated their name and shook hands when appropriate. I felt a little awkward, but got through it and accepted a plate piled high with delicious German food.  Germans settled this part of Texas and it shows.  Beer and good food are everywhere.  Music, too.  Finally, I felt I knew what to do.  I began stuffing my road-weary face with the sausages, sauerkraut, beans and other delights.  I chatted with my neighbors at the table as I ate.  It turns out the group belongs to a Pen Pal club. That is how they know each other.  It is similar to blogging, only more egalitarian.  I think they rely on email.  In any event, Phyllis brought them all together for possibly the first time. They came from many states and from more than a thousand miles away.  They knew each other, nonetheless. It was a family in the best sense of the word.


Phyllis busied herself tending her guests.  During a brief lull in the action we made plans to spend the next day together.  Near dark, I excused myself and returned to the hotel.

I resurrected at dawn. I know it was dawn because the rain was glistening in the low sunlight.  I met Phyllis in the lobby.  She wanted to show me some of the local beauty and twisty roads.  She had an automobile.  I agreed to ride along. I needed to dry out.


We travelled west of town on Farm Road 1347, I think. That's where we found Stonehenge. We also discovered a replica of one of those statues from Easter Island. I do not know what they are called, but I know them when I see 'em.  This figure is ten to twelve feet tall.  Much smaller than the original.  The whimsy is full-sized, tho.  Our path took us across more than a dozen streams, each one a tributary of the Guadalupe River.

We wound along the road for a long time, chatting about our lives as we went. Phyllis has overcome challenges that might have destroyed a lesser person.  She organized the pen pal club to serve people far less fortunate than almost anyone who reads (or writes) this blog.  She is a kind of Mother Teresa of the Hill Country.  Who knew?  I was profoundly impressed with her sweetness and devotion to helping others.  My own efforts seem pale in comparison.  Heck, my efforts seem pale on their own.

After an hour or so, we sped south toward Medina  on Hwy 173.  The road lay among rocky hills, steep and close together.  We twisted and climbed and turned sharply to stay on the pavement.  I have GOT to go back after the rain stops and do this right - on my bike.  Eventually, we arrived in Medina. The single attraction there is "The Apple Store."  The town is 200 yards long, I guess, but there must have been 100 people in the store.  They sell everything apple, including trees.  Me? I bought apple pie and ice cream.  Phyllis had a soda.


Next, we picked up good old Hwy. 16 south and headed for Bandera, Texas. Again, I was treated to numerous curves, hills and scenes that beg appreciation from a motorcycle.  Once we arrived in Bandera, I knew I was in love with the Hill Country.  The Labor Day parade had just ended and the town square was in total gridlock.  No problem for most folks.  The square was lined with every sort of refreshment stand, restaurant and watering hole.  Cold beer seemed popular, but blue Margaritas were popular, too.  Regardless of weather, several thousand people turned out, travelling by any means available to get there!  Check out the parking lot, right.  Mongo's in town?  Other forms of transportation in Bandera included Ferrari, Alpha Romeo, Horses and a few carts and strollers.  I am convinced Bandera is the party capital of the Hills. It IS worth the trip.

After Bandera, we wandered back to Kerrville, arriving in mid afternoon. That evening, I returned to the Lady Bird Park to dine with the pen pals one last time.  There was a band and a Bar-B-Que dinner and a drawing for prizes at the end of the evening.  I won a large book devoted to planning romantic weddings. Chilling.  It was a wonderful evening.  Phyllis and I talked about working together on some projects.Perhaps we shall meet again before another forty years pass.
I returned to the hotel, fully spent from the day's activities and went directly to bed.  At first light, I would begin the 300 mile ride north. I began to miss the Hills before my eyes closed for the night.

Wednesday, September 16, 2009

Riding the Texas Hill Country Part Two


When we last met, I had over-eaten at the bar-b-que stand in Llano, Texas. My sarcastic motorcycle groaned excessively as I threw my leg over the seat and fired it up. At least I think it was the motorcycle. As I turned onto the main highway, I noticed the local icehouse. Apparently, Blue Duck owns and operates the icehouse. If you are a fan of the Lonesome Dove stories, I am sure you will be happy to know Blue Duck finally went straight. I mean law-abiding. Funny how the meaning of words change over time.

The trip from Llano to Fredericksburg is pleasant enough. Oh sure, I took a soaking in another blinding storm, but it lasted only five miles or so. In the grand scope of things, it is hardly worth mention. Besides, I was fortunate to be wearing rainproof clothing purpose built for this sort of contingency. High tech, it funnels the icy rain down the back of your neck, keeping the wearer constantly refreshed.  After 40 miles, I arrived in Fredericksburg. I roamed the streets for a while, allowing an opportunity for the line of storms to pass beyond my exact route.


Fredericksburg is home to beds and breakfast, teahouses, galleries and many other attractions of a civilized nature. It is impossible not to get into the spirit of the town when confronting so many quaint shops and so much meticulously preserved architecture. I felt positively cultured. On my way out of town, I spied Lady Bird Johnson Park. The reunion with my former classmate and the group would take place there later that evening. I cruised in. The Ranger provided directions to the historic house where the festivities and the reunion would take place. I checked it out and hit the highway once more. It was not actually raining, so I relaxed and enjoyed the scenery during the 20-mile jaunt to Kerrville, my headquarters for the next day.
Kerrville bills itself as "The Heart of the Hill Country." They might be right. Almost any road out of town, particularly those leading west and south, take you directly into seriously beautiful scenery.
My next stop was the YO Resort Hotel. I tossed my gear into the room. The same family owns and operates the hotel and the historic 40,000 acre YO Ranch, west of Kerrville. Guests can stay at the ranch, too. I hear they have exotic animals and spa-like amenities for their guests. Sounds interesting and a tad pricey.  The hotel is fine by me.


My stay at the YO Hotel was comfortable and reasonably priced. There is a well-stocked bar and the restaurant enjoys a good reputation among the locals. I did not eat there this trip, but it was due to my schedule, not the establishment. I will check it out for you on my next visit in October, I hope. The hotel is one of several worthy establishments in Kerrville. I make many sacrifices for my readers.  I even visited the replica of Stonehenge on the outskirts of town.  Far out, eh?


I grabbed a quick power nap and organized my gear before heading out to the reunion. I admit to being a little nervous. I learned only at the last minute that I would not know anyone there except my high school sweetie.
Eventually, I saddled up and returned North along my original track to the Lady Bird Park in Fredericksburg. I found a parking place next to the ancient house and dismounted. I walked slowly, wondering what awaited me inside. Swallowing hard, I opened the door and stepped in. “Do you know me?” I asked the woman inside. I smiled disarmingly. Then, she began to cry.

“Awww, man,” I thought, “I guess this means she finally got that eye operation she needed.”



That is all for today.  Next time, I'll tie up the loose ends.  Stay tuned.

Friday, September 11, 2009

Riding Texas' Hill Country, Part One

I am probably the last motorcycle-touring enthusiast in North America to discover the heart of the Texas Hill Country. This is even more shameful when you count I was born, raised and educated in the Lone Star State. I did my best to correct the deficiency over the recent Labor Day weekend.


If you are familiar with Texas weather, you will understand my lack of surprise that enormous thunderstorms followed me for the entire three-day jaunt. Drought? What drought? Rain adds an entirely new dimension to the excitement of travelling by motorcycle. The blinding torrents of water I encountered the moment I hit the road practically rewrote the entire adventure. Sheets of lightning crawling across the heavy overcast relieved the predawn darkness almost continuously. Lucky for me, I was able to use the brilliant flashes to estimate the location of the center stripe. The storm lasted just about two hours. Then, I got a temporary reprieve and made up for lost time.

When I first thought of writing this article, I organized my thoughts and experiences along a specific time line. I planned to quote highway, farm to market road and ranch road numbers. That was so readers who wished to follow a similar path could make their own route. Lucky for you, I decided that was too boring. If you want directions, send an email. I can send you a Garmin GPS route or just some notes on which highways and by-ways I found interesting. The spine of the Hill Country is Texas Highway 16. Pick it up as far north as you can and ride it all the way to Bandera, Texas and points south. There are dozens of possible side trips along the way. I travelled on 218 out of Hamilton, TX and discovered isolated and beautiful places like Star and Bend, Texas on various farm and ranch roads.

State highway 16 is a wide two-lane road. It is in good condition, lightly travelled and free of excessive law enforcement. I explored TX-16 from Priddy, TX south to Bandera. At Priddy, the terrain is rolling plains of breath-taking expanse. Golden hayfields cover the landscape making a patchwork with green pastures and dark forests. Against this backdrop, the roadway swoops around long curves and climbs hills only to plunge into a narrow pass or wide valley on the other side. Then, it begins again. Climb, dive into a curve and recover in time to race to the foot of the next 500-foot hill. This kind of ride leaves you proud you ride a bike and feeling privileged to be alive. The air brought exotic fragrances of crops in the field, desert sand and wild flowers. It was wonderful and it lasted more than four hours.

As I travelled farther south, the hills and curves became more pronounced and closer together. Large deer began to appear on the roadside. Many waited for me to pass before crossing. Thank goodness. When I arrived in Llano, I felt completely relaxed. My good friend and all around motorcycle Guru, Jim Kauffman, helped me plan this trip. He included a lunch break at Cooper’s Bar-B-Que in Llano on my itinerary. I felt obliged to try it. I was not disappointed. The cheerful crew recommended a chopped beef sandwich, beans, Cole slaw and potato salad for a hungry traveler. I got the works and devoured it with a large glass of iced tea. I got change back from the ten I handed them in payment and I felt sure I would not need to eat again for a day or two!
Thus ends our first installment. Next time, I will tell you about the real Hill Country roads south and west of Kerrville. There are many roads and trails to ride, good places to eat and comfortable places to sleep. If you are in the mood to party, I know the perfect town. Just thinking about it makes me want to go back – and soon.

cmreader99@gmail.com

Wednesday, September 2, 2009

The First Word.

If you enjoy the laid back, thrilling pace of motorcycle travel, this is the place for you.  In coming weeks, we will travel some of the most interesting non-interstate highways in Texas and across the nation.  In fact, our first ride is scheduled for September 4th through 6th in the Texas Hill Country.  You should be seeing our first posts about that time.  We'll review roads, eateries, roadhouses, lodging and share all the excitement of hitting the open road on powerful two-wheelers.

So, tighten your chin-strap and hang on.  The fun is about to begin!

The Back Road Riders